12 Questions to Ask a Roofer Before Hiring
Print this checklist. Ask every contractor these twelve questions before you sign — and know which answers are red flags.
Hiring a roofer is the most consequential decision in your roof project. The material you pick matters. The price you pay matters. But the contractor you choose determines whether the roof actually works.
Most homeowners have never hired a roofer before. They don’t know what good looks like, so they can’t tell when someone’s cutting corners. This checklist fixes that.
Print it. Ask every contractor these twelve questions. Write down the answers. Compare them.
Questions 1–4: Verify the basics
1. What’s your license number, and can I verify it?
A roofer who hesitates here is a roofer with something to hide. Every legitimate contractor should give you their license number without drama.
Good answer: “Here it is. You can check it at [state contractor board website].”
Red flag: “We’re licensed, yeah.” No number. No verification.
Licensing is state-specific. Some states require a roofing-specific license. Others accept a general contractor’s license. Regardless, get the number and check it.
2. Can I see your certificate of insurance?
You need two policies:
- General liability: Protects your property if the crew damages something
- Workers’ compensation: Protects you if a worker gets injured on your property
Good answer: They produce a COI (certificate of insurance) naming you as the certificate holder within a day.
Red flag: “We’re fully insured, don’t worry about it.” Verbal claims are worthless.
If a contractor works without workers’ comp and someone gets hurt, you can be held liable in many states. This is non-negotiable.
3. How long have you been in business at this address?
Storm chasers and fly-by-night operators don’t have five-year histories. They have P.O. Boxes and cell phones.
Good answer: 5+ years with a local address, local references, and a track record you can verify.
Red flag: “We’ve been in business two years but we’ve got 30 years of experience.” That usually means the owner worked for someone else and hasn’t proven their own business yet.
Drive past their office. Look them up with the Better Business Bureau. Search their name plus “complaint” or “lawsuit.”
4. Who will be my point of contact during the job?
The person who sells you the job is rarely the person who manages the crew. You need a name, a phone number, and the expectation that they’ll be on-site.
Good answer: “Your project manager is [Name]. They’ll be here every morning and available by phone. Here’s their direct number.”
Red flag: “The crew lead will handle everything.” Crew leads change. If there’s a problem, you need someone with authority and accountability.
Questions 5–8: Understand the scope
5. Will you remove the old roof or install over it?
Installing over old shingles (an overlay) is cheaper and faster. It’s also a bad idea in most cases.
Good answer: “We’ll tear off down to the decking, inspect everything, and then install new underlayment.”
Red flag: “Overlay saves you money and works fine.” Overlaying hides deck damage, adds weight, and often voids warranties.
There are narrow cases where overlay is acceptable. Sound deck, one layer existing, mild climate, short-term ownership. But most reputable contractors default to tear-off.
6. What’s included in your estimate, line by line?
A real estimate has line items: tear-off, disposal, decking repair, underlayment, flashing, shingles, ventilation, cleanup, and warranty.
Good answer: They hand you a 2–4 page estimate that you can understand and compare.
Red flag: A one-page “Replace roof: $9,500” with no breakdown. You can’t compare that. You can’t tell what’s missing.
7. What brand and specific line of shingles will you use?
“Architectural shingles” is a category, not a product. Get specifics.
Good answer: “GAF Timberline HDZ in Weathered Wood.” Or Owens Corning Duration in Driftwood. Brand, line, color.
Red flag: “We’ll use 30-year architectural shingles.” That could be anything from any manufacturer. They might be installing builder-grade seconds from a discount warehouse.
8. How do you price unexpected decking damage?
Bad decking is common and often invisible until tear-off. A good contractor prices this upfront.
Good answer: “Decking replacement is $85 per 4x8 sheet. We’ll show you photos of anything we find and get your approval before proceeding.”
Red flag: “We’ll figure it out if we find it.” That’s a blank check.
Questions 9–12: Protect yourself
9. What’s your payment schedule?
Never pay the full amount before work starts. Standard practice:
- Nothing until materials arrive
- 10–30% at start of work
- Balance on completion after inspection
Good answer: “10% when we start, 90% when you’re satisfied.”
Red flag: “We need 50% upfront to schedule.” Or worse: “We need full payment today to lock in this price.” Walk away.
10. What’s your workmanship warranty, and what does it actually cover?
Manufacturer warranties cover defects in the shingles. Workmanship warranties cover installation errors. The mistakes that cause most leaks.
Good answer: “We offer a 10-year workmanship warranty covering leaks caused by installation errors. Here’s the written warranty.”
Red flag: “We stand behind our work.” Verbal promises are not warranties. Get it in writing.
11. Will you pull the permit, or do I need to?
In most jurisdictions, the contractor pulls the permit. It’s their job.
Good answer: “We handle permitting. Once approved, we’ll post it on-site.”
Red flag: “You’ll save money if you pull the permit yourself.” That’s them avoiding accountability. Permits are tied to licensed contractors.
12. Can I see three references from the last six months?
Not testimonials. Not Yelp reviews. Actual customers you can call.
Good answer: Three names, numbers, and addresses without hesitation.
Red flag: “We respect our customers’ privacy.” Or they give you only one. Or the references are from two years ago.
When you call references, ask: Was the work done on schedule? Did they clean up daily? Did anything unexpected happen, and how did they handle it? Would you hire them again?
Red flag cheat sheet
During your conversations, watch for these patterns:
| Red flag | What it means |
|---|---|
| Pressure to sign today | They’re afraid of comparison shopping |
| No written estimate | They don’t want accountability |
| No local address or recent history | Storm chaser or fly-by-night |
| Asks for large deposit | Cash flow problem; possible scam |
| Won’t put warranty in writing | They don’t intend to honor it |
| Can’t answer material specifics | They’re cutting corners on products |
| Won’t pull permits | Likely unlicensed or cutting corners |
| No local references | No proven track record |
| Insurance claims expertise as a selling point | They’re steering your claim, not installing your roof |
What to bring to the meeting
When contractors arrive to inspect:
- Your questions printed out. It signals that you’re prepared and serious.
- A tape measure. Know your approximate roof dimensions.
- Photos of water damage or interior stains. Evidence helps them scope accurately.
- Your insurance declaration page (if filing a claim). Shows coverage details.
- A notebook. Write everything down. Compare notes later.
The bottom line
The cheapest estimate isn’t the best value. The contractor who pressures you isn’t confident in their work. The contractor who can’t answer basic questions about licensing, insurance, and scope isn’t someone you want on your roof.
Get three estimates. Ask the twelve questions. Compare answers side by side. The difference between a good contractor and a bad one is usually visible within the first ten minutes of conversation. If you know what to ask.
Your roof protects everything under it. Spend the time to hire right.
For a deeper dive on comparing estimates, see how to read a roofing estimate.
Frequently asked questions
How many estimates should I get?
Three. Fewer doesn’t give you market context. More than five wastes everyone’s time.
Should I tell one contractor what the others bid?
Not until you’ve picked one. If you reveal numbers during bidding, some contractors will undercut artificially. Get independent quotes first.
What if a contractor won’t answer one of these questions?
That’s your answer. A contractor who balks at transparency isn’t someone you hire. Move on.
Can I just use the contractor my insurance company recommended?
You can, but don’t skip independent estimates. “Preferred” contractors often have volume relationships with insurers. An independent contractor may scope and price differently.
Should I pay extra for a “premium” contractor?
A contractor charging 20% above market needs to justify it. Certifications, longer warranties, specialty materials. If they can’t explain the premium clearly, they don’t deserve it.